Sunday, November 25, 2012

Modernization of Tibetan costumes - Interviews, visit to local tailors & secondary research


Tibetan women wearing a chupa
A teacher at TCV School in Bir wearing the Chupa & the apron (ideally worn by married women)

Tibetan women wearing a chupa


Tibetan women wearing a chupa


Tibetan costume ideally depends on the geographic area and the economic status. In cold northern Tibet, herdsmen usually wear fur robes whereas in Shannan prefecture where the climate is warmer, farmers wear tweed (a kind of wool produced in Tibetan rural areas). People in Lhasa wear silk clothing in summer and fur robes in winter.

The Tibetan costumes selling in shops nowadays are simpler and sleeker and made of different fabric and style compared to the traditional ones.

Interview


We interviewed Mr. Samten Dhondup, an opera teacher at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) about the costumes in Tibet during our visit to McLeodganj.
I am still editing and refining the interview video & hence will take some time to share. Meanwhile here is an extract of the interview.




According to him the styles, colors, motifs & patterns have changed a lot recently. Clothing of Tibet & its neighboring countries such as Mongolia & China are highly influenced by each other. 
Tibet has taken the best things from its neighboring countries, he says. Food is influenced by China, clothing by Mongolia and religion (Buddhism) comes from India.

In Tibet, the fabric which is mainly used is made of sheep wool. The colors initially were only black and white. It was only later that people of high ranks traveled to India and got influenced by colors and started to use them. Now we see almost every color in Tibetan costumes.



Secondary Research


I was doing some secondary research over the internet today and this is what I found on http://english.chinatibetnews.com/Culture/2012-07/17/content_1015921.htm regarding the changes in Tibetan costumes local residents wear in Lhasa. Here is an extract:

Nowadays, the Tibetan costumes selling in shops are simpler and prettier, greatly changed in fabric and style compared with traditional ones.
"In fact, I feel that the style of male costume hasn't changed much, but that of female is tending to be more fashionable with a variety of fabrics and patterns." said Tsering Lhamo, a costume designer in Tibet Music and Dance Troupe.
Over the past decades, the most remarkable change of Tibetan costumes is color, said Tsering Lhamo, who has worked as a designer for over 20 years and has designed numerous theater costumes.
In the 1990s, the local residents in Lhasa wore costumes with simple color such as dark blue or brown, but now their Tibetan costumes are more colorful and beautiful.
The styles have changed much as well.
In the past, a suit of Tibetan costume was  loose and long, and usually had a belt in the middle. A tailoring innovation occurred 30 years ago seperated the costume into two parts, making the top of costume fit well and the bottom still a comfortable skirt.


Visit to local tailors & dressmakers

In the main market in Bir we stopped by some local tailors' shops and saw some daily-wear chupas, construction details, etc.

The female chupa is a long, ankle-length dress made out of a variety of fabrics, and underneath it, one wears something called a woon-juk, which is an open shirt that is folded up into the chupa.

The Shirt or Woon-juk

A modern Chupa. Its meant to be a little longer

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This, what I am wearing in gray and pink, is a modernized version of the traditional chupa. You would note that this is stitched to the right size along the bust & waist line unlike the traditional chupa (on the right) which is loose and tightened along the waist using a sash.


What goes on top of the chupa is a multicolored striped apron which only a married woman wears. There are usually three panels and the colors can range from shades of one color to a plenty of colors.

The multicolored apron
The striped apron is worn only by married women


The apron worn by married women
Still from a folk dance performance wherein the women have worn the colorful aprons
Still from a folk dance performance wherein the women have worn the colorful aprons
A local tailors shop in Bir
Clothes for the Buddhist Monks in a local tailors shop in Bir


Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Shoot at the TCV school

After the longggggggggg day yesterday it was really difficult to pull myself out of bed. Finally at about 7.50am I was out of bed and took a quick shower and we headed to Tibetan Childrens Village (TCV) school near Dal lake in Upper Dharamshala for the shoot.

We walked down to the main square. Since we did not have much time to eat, we just ate some chana dal and KitKat while we walked. There was no auto available until we reached the main square but the walk was beautiful :) After the cool night and the shower in the morning it felt good to soak in the sun :)
We got an auto from the main square to get to the school.

Here are some images from the shoot of the various performances. I am not sharing any images of the shoot as the CD is due to release next month. 

Costume from Kham region


The shoot
                         
Camera rolling, sound, action!
                       

Camera rolling, sound, action!

Adorning in traditional costume and jewelry from the U-Tsang region
              
costumes, jewelry and more! - The auditorium was their green room

Adorned in jewelry from the U-Tsang region
                            
Two beautiful artists in costumes from U-Tsang region

Traditional drums - I cannot recollect the name as I was not able to jot down


With the team :)



Lunch at the school with the team

Lunch at the school with the team


Some more shooting and documenting and then we were done for the day! We left the school at about 5pm. Laju and Sahil were waiting for us in the bazaar for shopping. 

We took some pictures at the Dal Lake (right in front of the school) before we left. No posing, no drama from the two nautankis this time as we were crazy tired!




At the Dal Lake

At the Dal Lake





Tibetan Folk Dance & Opera



We reached TIPA right on time and Mr. Samten took us to the green room where the teams were dressing up for the show.

We did not realize how time flied taking pictures, interacting with the artists & learning about the costumes and dances. They all looked beautiful.

The show began at 6.30pm at the auditorium in TIPA. I and Hiten were shuttling between the green rooms and the auditorium to watch the show. We could not take our eyes off the graceful dancers. They were not only dancing but also singing and playing musical instruments.
Immensely talented people!
We loved the performances. I have videos which I would be sharing shortly. I do not have high speed internet right now.

Here are some images from the green room & the show itself. I will write more about the costumes, fabrics, patterns & prints and jewelry in detail soon.

Replica of traditional jewelry. Original traditional jewelry is made in expensive pearls, turquoise, agate beads and other semi precious stones.

Dawa, an artist at TIPA, getting ready for a folk dance performance. The costume is from the U-Tsang region.



Gorgeous Dawa is ready for the performance. This costume is from the Kham region. Undoubtedly graceful and beautiful.

Performance from the Kham region 

Getting ready for a performance from the U-Tsang region

Ready for a performance from the U-Tsang region

The gorgeous Dawa in a costume from U-Tsang region

Dance from the U-Tsang region performed by aristocrats or noble men & women

Dance from the U-Tsang region performed by aristocrats or noble men & women



Preparing for a performance from the Kham region

Performance from the Kham region

Performance from the Kham region

The graceful artists at TIPA


Library of Tibetan works and Archives


Mr. Samten Dhondup, the opera instructor, who was assisting us with the project was busy in the afternoon preparing for the show they had in the evening - The Tibetan folk dance show. Hence we had the afternoon free. We walked down to the main chowk to meet Sahil & Laju for a late lunch. They had found accommodation at a 6-7minute walk from TIPA towards Dharamkot.

A view of Dharamhala while heading down from TIPA & our Guest House to the main chowk

                       
A view of Dharamhala while heading down from TIPA & our Guest House to the main chowk

The narrow street winding down to the main square

Tibetan Freedom Movement - Sub Committee Office 

We had lunch at a restaurant named 'Punjabi Dhaba' which was at a 3-4 minute walk from the main square. Food was okay but the dishes weren't clean so wouldn't go there again!

The Tibetan Folk dance performance was scheduled at 6.30pm and we were supposed to be there by 6pm so we could work backstage in the green rooms while the teams got ready for the performances.
We still had time, it was only 3.30pm and hence we decided to go to the Library of Tibetan works and Archives.

We asked someone where it was and we were told - close by at about 6 mins walk.
We walked for about 10 minutes and asked again and we were told - not too far, just 15 minutes from here!
We walked down further for about another 15 minutes and then we were told it was still 10 minutes further down the winding road!

The walk was endless. Not that it mattered as we could explore the place but then we were concerned as the library was scheduled to close at 5pm. Finally we met a Tibetan girl, Dolma, who spoke broken English and asked her how far the Library really was. She took us from a short cut and we reached the library in about another 10 minutes. Finallyyyy!!! 
Dolma told us she went to the main square in Mcleod to learn English. 

Hiten with Dolma - our new Tibetan friend 



                         
Some kids in the village who wanted us to take their pictures - Photo khicho na, photo khicho na. Reminded me of the 'photo paado, photo paado' we heard from the kids in Kudasan village near NID during our photography module.

A narrow walkway after the shortcut we took.

Library of Tibetan works and Archives (LTWA)

Ancient manuscripts, artefacts, books, etc were destroyed when the communist Chinese took-over Tibet in 1959. HIs Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama, founded the Library of Tibetan works and Archives to restore, preserve and promote what was lost.

LTWA was set up in 1970 and since then has grown to become one of the premier institute in the world specializing in Buddhist and Tibetan studies. 

We were sure we would find what we needed here.



                     
Finally we arrived the library. Could not take a good picture as it was 4.40 and we had very little time to work
The entrance lobby

Details of the fine painting at the entrance door



We asked the librarian if they had any book documenting costumes of the Kham region. We did not really have the time to explore on our own. She got us one book from the store inside. It was in Tibetan language.

We inquired the process of borrowing books or photographing them. We were allowed to photograph them at a nominal fee! We requested her to quickly pull out some more books that we can refer to. We explained our project so that she can help us.
She issued us some 6-7 books out of which 5 were relevant and we could use.
Though it was past 5 she kept the library open for us so that we can do what we came there for. Another moment when I felt how helpful and friendly these people were. 
When we were leaving she gave us her card and told us to feel free to write to her incase we need more help for the project. She also told us that she is happy we are doing such a project. This small gesture reflects how much they appreciate any effort towards preserving their culture.
Feeling blessed, once again!

Now we had to rush back to TIPA. It was almost 5.20pm and we had to travel back up this time so walking would not be possible - one, due to time and two, as we did not have so much energy after the sleepless night, travelling and super long day we have already had.